Surfing…

I can’t imagine surfing; balancing on a board that rocks and roils with the waves. I have skied (both kinds) and even skateboarded, back in the day. I’d find my balance, place my feet in a stable position and soften the knees. I imagine two ends to surfing. First, a fantasy of letting my body roll with the ups and downs, like a cowboy on a bucking bull. Second, an immediate and painful face plant on the liquid but unforgiving water. There’s no doubt which would be my lot. Surfers must balance, sure, and be grounded, yes, but also be fully present. One peek into the fear of falling and boom, you’re snorting salt water. Writing is riding a wild ocean. Craft is the board; passion and skill ground your feet. Confidence softens your knees to absorb the shock of the pounding waves; a volatile seascape. At times you have to call it a day, having fallen too many times. Then there are days when the thrill of the rise carries you until the next drop. I’m not much of a thrill seeker so I’ll stick to the crest and crash of writing even if it includes the agony of defeat.

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